Chapter 1 Introduction介绍
1.1 Background背景
旗袍是一种少数民族妇女的服装，最初是从满族妇女的长袍演变而来（肖、董，2015）。清末旗袍的风格主要来源于满族服饰。满族旗袍以大、直、丝为主要原料，绣有图案，衣领、服装、翻领、服装均采用宽花边卷制（蔡等，2015）。辛亥革命以后，旗袍在中国社会开始流行起来，特别是在上海的时候，旗袍得到了很大的改进，旗袍的改进呈现出更多的女性曲线，而且裂缝更高（王和刘，2000）。旗袍织物比较薄，印花织物较多，装饰也比较简单。1929年，北伐战争结束，国家政府成立（Forney，1981）。1929年4月16日，国家政府首次颁布了《服装条例》，正式确立了旗袍的民族服饰地位，这是旗袍首次写入《旗袍法典》。在此之前，汉族妇女穿旗袍，这完全是自愿的行为。但从1929年4月16日起，有一个严格的规定，旗袍被定为正式服装，在重要的庆典、节日、庆典场合，中国妇女必须穿旗袍（尼森，2003年）。例如，女学生在开幕式、毕业典礼等重要场合必须穿旗袍。
Cheongsam is a kind of ethnic women's clothing, initially it was evolved from the Manchu women's robe (Xiao and Dong, 2015). The style of the cheongsam in the late Qing Dynasty was mainly from the Manchu attire. Manchu cheongsam is mainly large, straight, made of silk, embroidered with pattern, the collar, clothing, lapel, garments are rolled with wide lace (Tsai et al., 2015). After the Revolution of 1911, cheongsam began to become very popular in the Chinese community, especially at the time of Shanghai, then cheongsam had been improved a lot, improved cheongsam showed more female curve, and the slits were higher (Wang and Liu, 2000). The cheongsam fabric was thinner, there were more printed fabrics and the decoration was also more simple. In 1929, the Northern Expedition has ended and the National Government has been established (Forney, 1981). On April 16, 1929, the National Government first promulgated "clothing regulations", which formally established the status of the national dress of cheongsam, and it was the first time when cheongsam was written into the Code. Before that, Han women wore cheongsam which was entirely a voluntary act. But from April 16, 1929, there was a strict rule, cheongsam was set as a formal dress, in important celebrations, festivals, ceremonial occasions, Chinese women must wear cheongsam (Niessen, 2003). For example, female students in the opening ceremony, graduation ceremony and other important occasions must wear cheongsam.
20世纪30年代后，旗袍发生了很大变化（江、李、杨、彭，2013）。大量西服元素传入，大量西服面料被采用。许多服装设计师从西服中汲取灵感，在此基础上进一步完善旗袍。例如，20世纪30年代中期，欧美的高跟鞋开始与旗袍搭配，改变了旗袍的流行风格，裙子逐渐加长，精致的高跟鞋增加了旗袍的美感，使女性显得苗条、性感、动人（高，2010）。随着旗袍下摆的加长，开缝越来越高，从传下来的旗袍上可以看出变化，有的非常精细，所用的面料非常高贵，有的面料甚至与巴黎时装、晚礼服所用的面料一致（陶，2009）。
After the 1930s, cheongsam changed a lot (Jiang, Li, Yang and Peng, 2013). A large number of Western clothing elements came in, a large number of Western fabrics were adopted. Many costume designers learned from the Western clothing to acquire inspiration, based on this to further improve cheongsam. For example, in the mid-1930s, high heels from Europe and the United States began to match with cheongsam, changing the popular style of cheongsam, the skirt was gradually lengthened, exquisite high heels increased the beauty of cheongsam, so that women were looked slender, sexy and moving (Gao, 2010). As cheongsam hem was made longer, the slits were getting higher and higher, changes could be seen from the cheongsam handed down, some were very fine, the fabric used was very noble, and some fabrics were even consistent with fabrics used for Paris fashion, evening dress (Tao, 2009).
In the 1940s and 1980s, due to the occurrence of war in Grant China Area and the instability of the political situation, the social and economic development was affected, and the mobility of cheongsam in Chinese society gradually decreased. With the reform and opening up the Chinese mainland, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macao's rapid economic development, cheongsam was popular again in the Chinese world, but the popular of this time was different from that of 50 years ago (Zhao and Chen, 2008). First, the influence of cheongsam extended to the international community, in many important international occasions and fashion show, there have the emergence of cheongsam, many well-known international influential female celebrities have begun to try cheongsam. Second, the cheongsam was popular for some people and certain industries, and it was not large-scale popular in the public, for example: a lot of well-known female stars wore cheongsam in a variety of formal occasions, while cheongsam has become a work uniform for ceremonial usherette, female waiters (Sheng, 2010). Finally, by the impact of international fashion design, there was a more bold breakthrough in high-end cheongsam in the design, style, tailoring, color, materials, which was more in line with contemporary aesthetic to form a modern cheongsam. On the other hand, cheongsam for work uniforms is designed with a single style, made of low-grade materials and it is rough in workmanship, which is detrimental to the public’s good impression on cheongsam, making a lot of consumers unwilling to choose cheongsam as a daily costume.
1.2 Research significance
Chinese cheongsam is mainly characterized by smooth lines, smooth texture, various forms, colorful patterns. From the aesthetic point of view, a beautiful cheongsam is a peerless national handicraft and works of art, it is also the embodiment of beauty and a symbol of beauty. Classic style of cheongsam is able to show the beauty of women, highlight the oriental introverted, self-confident, simple temperament. From the cultural point of view, cheongsam reflects the characteristics of Chinese ritual culture, it is the traditional Chinese human spirit, the organic combination of the rule of law concept and moral norms, in today's international community, as the influence of Chinese culture gradually increases, cheongsam becomes the most representative of Chinese culture and it has been known by the world.
Outline
1.0 Introduction
介绍文章背景，意义，目的，动机和结构
2.0 Literature review
-旗袍的興起與沒落
-東方傳統服飾的日常生活保留程度
-奢侈品和旗袍的购买动机研究
-奢侈品和旗袍的购买行为的实证研究
-对回顾的文献进行批判性分析，指出本文的理论创新之处
3.0 Methodology
-问卷调查
-定量研究
-回归分析
4.0 Discussion
结合文献对问卷调查的结果进行分析
5.0 Recommendation
5.1品牌宣传
-结合网络，电影等手段进行旗袍的宣传
5.2 销售渠道
-专卖店，商城，网络
5.3 价格策略
5.4 促销策略
-培养消费者的旗袍消费习惯
5.5 产品策略
-比對中国，日、韓、越南旗袍的特点，根据消费者需求对旗袍的设计做出调整
6.0 Conclusion
-总结全文
-指出本文的局限
-展望未来的研究
References
Appendix
7.3 Limitations and future research
Limitations of this study are basically reflected in the following aspects. Firstly, it mainly used questionnaire survey to collect data to understand consumers’ behavior in buying cheongsams, and the research results were analyzed according to relevant literatures. However, formation of buying decision is a very complicated process influenced by many factors, whether the author’s analysis can really reflect the respondents’ inner motivation also needs to be verified by further study. Secondly, the author was through the questionnaire survey to collect the data of consumers’ cheongsam consumption behavior, and according to these data to recommend on future marketing strategies of cheongsam enterprises. However, it should be mentioned that different consumers have different preferences and buying behavior in purchasing cheongsams, this study failed to further segment cheongsam market to put forward more targeted marketing strategy aiming at characteristics of consumer behavior of each market segment.
Future research can be carried out in the following two aspects: first, it can adopt the method of qualitative research, through semi-structured interviews to collect data, so as to directly understand consumers’ psychological thoughts and motivation of buying and wearing cheongsams, so that the result of the quantitative research can be validated. Second, according to occupation, income, education background of consumers, it can segment cheongsam market, and according to the characteristics of consumers of different market segments to find out the target customers of cheongsam enterprise and determine product positioning, so as to bring forward targeted marketing measures, which will help cheongsam manufacturers to achieve success in marketing.
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Appendix 1 Questionnaire